Now that you have had an opportunity to read my introduction I'm sure you have plenty of questions. In the interest of your time I would like to answer some of those that are most often asked. This won't be a complete substitute for direct contact so if you want to discuss something further please give me a call, fax or e-mail. Phone (907) 455-6818, Fax (907) 455-6819, e-mail: wolfcrk@polarnet.com
I see that your prices are higher than some of the other outfitters I have contacted. Why is that?
When I started this business I was determined to make it the best operation in Alaska. Consequently, I have spared no expense in an effort to achieve this goal. I have hired some of the best guides in Alaska, pay them the best, and treat them as professionals. I give them the best equipment, food, and productive environment to work in. The support personnel are of the same caliber. I hire the best people for the job -based on their performance and qualifications. I make it a practice to run things efficiently yet maintain a casual hunting camp atmosphere. I don't attempt to cut corners when it comes to your hunt. This does not mean we are not cost conscious, in business you must be, I ask myself if reducing the cost of something will reduce the value of your hunt. If the answer is yes, I don't cut it.
There is always the temptation to join the crowd and offer hunts that are priced around the status quo. In order to do that and make a profit you're into some serious cost cutting. Where do these cuts come from? I have received many calls from hunters who have been victims of cost cutting. The biggest complaint is little or no food. Second is an inexperienced guide. Some of these outfitters who operate this way are still in business and have been so for a number of years. It bewilders me why, but obviously there is always someone who thinks they can get something for nothing. This is rarely the case.
I would like to offer hunts at a lesser price but to operate at the top of the heap and keep booking numbers down enough in order to ensure a good chance at a trophy animals I simply can't, and won't. I don't run volume hunts because they are not coincidental with good trophies or top quality service.
Do you hunt out of a lodge or a tent camp?
My base camps, both in the Brooks Range and on the Peninsula are heated Weatherport type tents. These are 12x24 or larger internally framed units. There are separate tents for cooking and bunking and the tents equipped with cots. These units are quite comfortable and shower and/or sauna is available.
I might need to make a call home. What facilities do you have in each camp?
At both the Brooks range camp and Alaska Peninsula camp I have used a single side band radio. This has not been satisfactory. Therefore in l997 I will attempt using a satellite telephone. This promises to be a more reliable system. Calls may be made and paid for on a unit/time basis. Though this system promises to be the best technology has to offer I encourage you to inform business and personal contacts of the vagaries of hunting in the bush and that maintaining schedules is largely a function of weather.
I see that some guides are Master Guides and others are Registered Guides. What's the difference?
A master guide is a registered guide who has had at least twelve years experience and applied for the rating. It is somewhat academic nowadays since the master guide rating was abandoned in 1989, prohibiting many otherwise qualified registered guides from using this title. The rating was reinstated in 1993. Keep in mind that whether you are booked with a registered guide or a master guide it is not likely that he will be the one in the field with you. The situation is analogous to the coach and player. The outfitter directs the affairs and logistics of the business. Once you are out in the field it is the guide who shares your tent and puts the ball in play. That is why I put my money into hiring the best guides available.
What are the customs and practices for tipping my guide?
Tipping is traditional. It is not mandatory. You should consider the amount of effort your guide put toward getting you a trophy animal and his attention to your comfort and enjoyment. When you make a determination keep in mind that your guide can't control the weather. He can't keep your trophy from residing in the worst possible terrain. He can't guarantee a book animal every time, and he can't get you in condition or shoot for you. If he does all he can under the circumstances I feel the minimum should be $300. On longer hunts, or a bear hunt, the tips usually start at $500 and in all cases may go up considerably from there. Tipping is not mandatory but highly recommended!!
Is this a backpack hunt?
Not in the literal sense. You will be flown in with all your equipment and supplies as close to game as is practicable. There you will establish your spike camp. From that point there may or may not be a lot of walking involved. In some circumstances, most particularly sheep, you may elect to pack into a place beyond accessibility by plane. Is so, your guide will be issued camp equipment consistent with you plan of attack.
What physical condition do I need to be in?
Hunting can be an arduous undertaking. Therefore, I recommend you be in the best physical condition possible. Your chances of succeeding may depend on your conditioning. If your animal is on the move you may be required to cover ground quickly and for a long period in order to get a shot at him. You may have to spend the night out on the mountain, or walk through several miles of soggy tundra and (heaven forbid) alders. Good conditioning plays a big part in mental attitude. A fatigued hunter is more likely to turn back just short of getting his trophy. Just short of what you came up here to do.
I realize that busy schedules often preclude getting in shape. Most of my guides can walk the legs off a centipede and they would love for you to be able to match them, step for step, but if you can't they will adjust the pace of the hunt to suit you. Realistically though, better shape, better chance.
What rifle should I bring and what should I sight it in for?
You should bring a rifle that you are comfortable shooting and can shoot accurately. I feel this is more important than the caliber you choose. However, if you are hunting on the Peninsula for brown bear I suggest a minimum of .338 with a preference for the .375H&H. Consider that almost every bear guide you run across will be using a .375H&H and that in the event you need ammunition, because you lost yours in a creek or it didn't make it to camp, you will at least have common ammunitions. A 300-grain bonded core bullet works well for me.
I prefer to keep the selection of rifles and calibers simple and avoid taking something into a remote area that you are not likely to get parts or ammunition for. Almost every village store in bear country will have .375H&H ammo, as will likely your guides, but trying to get ammo for a .415 Grizzly Blaster Special you wildcatted from one of uncle Ned's loads back in the '50's will be like trying to swim from Nassau to Nairobi. Underwater!!
If you shoot a large caliber for brown bear take the time to get used to it. I shoot mine more than most and have epoxied eight ounces of lead shot in the forearm just to keep it from beating me up too badly.
In the Brooks Range a .30 caliber will cover everything. I personally use a 30-06 with 180 grain bonded core bullet for all game except brown bear, but the .270, .300 Win, or .338 would be fine too. Most of my guides use the 30-06. I'm not a real fan of different bullet weights on a hunt. I don't like to confuse things. After the rifle is sighted in I write the data for trajectory and wind drift on the stock of my rifle. That way I don't have to worry about a failing memory and it gives me something else to read during a long storm, after I've consumed every book cereal package and matchbook in the tent. Memorize it. It will pay dividends in the end.
Most people will usually be able to tell you if an animal is within 300 yards, with a reasonable degree of accuracy. Beyond that point the margin for error rises dramatically. Therefore I use the 300-yard figure as the maximum I would normally attempt to shoot game. Limiting your shot to 300 yards and sighting for a 200 yard zero should keep your bullet within a margin of 5" above and 5" below the line of sight out to 300 yards. Please check the trajectory tables for your specific rifle. A 200 yard zero will work equally well for either your larger brown bear rifle or the smaller calibers. It is not likely that your first shot on a brown bear will be beyond 100 yards but with a 200 yard zero you will at least be prepared to dispatch a fleeing bear at longer range.
Also, put ten or twelve wraps of black plastic electrician's tape around the barrel, one wrap on top of the other, near the muzzle, so you will have a handy supply available for keeping water and debris out of you rifle muzzle. It will be blown off as the compressed gas proceeds the bullet down the barrel and won't effect the rifles point of impact.
Do I need a pack? What type and size?
Absolutely! You need something to carry rain gear, socks, candy bars, ammo, camera and assorted
amenities.
There are two main types, external frame pack and internal frame soft pack. In either case don't get anything small. The weight of the material is insignificant and you don't have to fill it up, but it's there if you need it. Most guides will be using an external frame pack because they are better for heavy loads than a soft pack. I find an additional advantage to an external frame pack is that I can attach a rifle carrier to the frame freeing my arms up for glassing and pushing aside alders. Not all rifle carriers are created equal. The best I have found is the Rifle Packer. It's made in Fairbanks by Dark Horse Leather for Alaska hunting so if you desire one I can arrange it for you. At last check they were around $40.
The other alternative is a good internal frame soft pack designed for the mountaineers. Probably the most suitable for a hunter who is not required to pack out meat and antlers. Don't get the average daypack. They are small and the suspension systems in them are uncomfortable over a long period. They are fine for carrying your lunch to a deer blind but not for serious use. And don't worry about the color of the pack. Buy a set of dull spray paint (they usually come in black, brown, olive green, and sand) from a hunting supplier and spray everything visible. Use a branch or a few leaves as a mask and you will be surprised how good it looks. For a more complete description I will send you an equipment list and comprehensive description of every piece of equipment listed when you book a hunt. If you follow it you will be well prepared.
How should I pack my gear coming into camp?
Coming up on the airlines fewer bags are definitely the most economical. Once you get in the bush
you will be traveling by Super Cub. Big bags and Super Cubs don't go well together. Buy a big "body bag" and pack it with items placed in several smaller bags. This makes it easier to repack into the small holes of the Cub. If you go with an external frame pack you will need to protect it by placing it in the "body bag" and stuffing other small sacks around it. If you don't you will be trusting a frame that might withstand the abuse of several seasons of packing out moose to a baggage handler. Ouch! Please leave regular, suitcase style luggage at home. When you book a hunt I will include guidelines for packing within the parameters of bush flying and bush living.
Do I need a sleeping bag? Pad?
Yes! At one time I used to supply the bags and pads for the hunters, thinking that it would be easier
to provide a system that I was sure would be suitable. Though this is still valid, I have found the logistics for getting the bags cleaned for the next hunter was not adequate. If you follow the guidelines I provide for you in the "Clothing & Equipment" information you receive when you book your hunt you will be coming to camp with the "right stuff."
What if I'm on a special diet? Do you make provisions for that?
Absolutely! My preference is a low fat diet so I usually cook something separate for myself. Some of
the Guides eat this way too so it comes as second nature to prepare foods along that line. We have plenty of vegetables, fruits, grains, legumes etc. We have all the heart stopping goodies that you would expect to find in a traditional hunting camp, like bacon, eggs, chocolate, pancakes w/syrup, cookies, rolls, pies and cakes. I indulge in them on more occasions than I want to admit. If you require something different inform me of your requirements and we will accommodate them. However you eat, you won't be lacking for food in the main camp or in the field. Guaranteed!!
Wine, Whiskey, and God help me!!
I keep beer and wine in main camp in very limited quantities. It is available to you at the main camp.
I don't encourage its use in spike camp but rather as a nice break in main camp, between and after hunts. If you want something additional or absolute assurance that the previous group of hunters has not consumed my supply then feel free to bring something of your own. Personally, I rarely have a drink in camp since I am ultimately responsible and I do the flying. You can never be sure that an emergency won't arise.
What about licenses, tags, and buying another tag in the field?
I am a licensed vendor so I will be able to take care of your initial license, tag issue and fees. If
you need additional tags while you are in the field you may purchase them from me. You may want a wolf tag once you get to camp. You may shoot a wolf while on another hunt at no charge but you must purchase a tag before doing the actual hunting. No "after the fact" tags!
"I encourage you to buy all the tags you may need before you begin your hunt. You may use any tag for an animal whose tags is of "equal or greater" face value. But if, for example, you want to shoot a wolf ($175/250) and you "only" have a moose tag ($400/500) you must tag the wolf with the higher priced moose tag. To resume moose hunting you are required to purchase another moose tag, since you have already applied your original to the wolf. That's an expensive wolf."
What can I do to increase my chances of getting my trophy?
The two biggest factors contributing to failure, are physical conditioning and shooting. More chances have been lost because of these two factors than all other reasons combined. The better shape you're in the more ground you will be able to cover. Your mental attitude will be better and you will be better prepared to shoot when you finally get into position.
Get completely familiar with your rifle. Sight it in yourself. Don't rely on a gunsmith or a friend. Then check the trajectory out to the maximum range you may be shooting. Do this several times before the hunts. Practice from varying positions. You are not likely to have as steady a position in the field as at the range. Practice, practice, practice! I know it sounds redundant, simple and maybe condescending but the mechanics of shooting need attention on a regular basis. Most of us look at shooting like sex. Once we've learned how and done it a few times we have become experts for life. Maybe!! I get rusty over the winter and look forward to getting out and honing my skill when the weather is better. Try to get some shooting in regularly. You don't want to lose your trophy for lack of practice.
What about the meat? Can I take some home with me?
You are welcome to take all you shoot and the guides will assist you in preparing it for your trip out.
However, all expenses incurred in taking the meat out, including transportation, preparation (not field prep.), and shipping are borne by the hunter. Many hunters take some meat with them but taking more than a small amount may require chartering an additional plane. In any case I will work with you so that, if you desire, you may take some meat with you. When you book your hunt I will include information from local meat processors addressing preparation, pricing, and shipping.
What are you spike camps like?
In all cases, except where you choose a lighter tent for a pack-in type camp, you will be staying in an
8' x 8' Bomb Shelter tent. These are the strongest most durable tents available. They are nearly 28 pounds each and, properly staked out, will withstand the winds of the Alaska Peninsula. Most lighter tents won't.
Your guide will assure that you are supplied with plenty of food and fuel from the main camp. I suggest you confer with your guide during the food selection process so that you don't get something you don't like. All equipment, stove, lanterns, pots & pans, are new, or like new, and in perfect working order. Everything will be clean, clean, clean! No grease or dirt left over from the last hunt or pans caked with rust or fuzzy Teflon.
You have everything you will need to live as comfortably as camping will allow and will be checked on and resupplied regularly. Depending of the weather, usually every two days.
We always have spare equipment in main camp in the event something should fail. Failed equipment will be replaced at the first opportunity.
Do you have accommodations for female hunters in spike camp?
Yes! If you require it, I'll be happy to provide an additional tent to insure your privacy. You will
likely have a male guide and he will be of the highest deportment and will do his best to assure your comfort and success.
What safety measures do you employ?
Main camp and the planes are equipped with marine radios. Each guide is equipped with a portable
marine radio, flares, strobe, smoke and a ground-to-air signal card. These items go in your guide's pack and with you in the field. Each spike camp is supplied with a large first-aid kit. Enough to take care of several men or several emergencies.
In the event of an emergency your guide may be able to address it on site and/or radio the main camp or plane, then make arrangements for evacuation. At main camp we will either have access to a phone (Peninsula) or possibly a satellite phone.
How do I get my trophies out of the field?
In most cases your hides will be salted and dried enough to fly out with you when you leave. We will
provide proper bags or containers for air shipping. If the hides are not dry enough for shipping before you leave, we will ship them to an expediter appropriate to the area you are hunting and arrange to have them shipped to you when they are ready. We will bill you for shipping to the expediter and the expediter will bill you for shipping from his address to you.
We will tape and pad your antlers and horns in main camp so that you may take them with you when you fly out. If you don't have a specific taxidermist I can recommend a few for particular species. Most don't do every specie well and some specialize in only one or two species. Be cautious when selecting a taxidermist.
